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A. Rentfro's Caring For Reptiles as Pets | ||
| Care Information | ||
| Reptiles as Pets | ||
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Snakes,
Lizards and Turtles
are very popular pets.
They don't require much
space, never bark at
night and when properly
maintained are completely
odorless. |
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Which
reptile will make the
best pet?
In
general the snakes require
the least care and special
attention, lizards quite
a bit more and turtles
and tortoises somewhere
in between. Whichever
group interests you
most, when you are choosing
a reptile pet it is
a good idea to learn
something about how
and where it lives in
nature. Reptiles which
are generalists in the
wild, that is they have
broad natural ranges,
inhabit varied environments
and even eat a variety
of foods, will always
do much better and be
easier to keep than
a more specialized animal.
Mostly, the animals
available in the pet
trade are generalists
and do well in captivity.
Some good examples of
these are the ratsnakes,
such as Cornsnakes and
the Savannah monitor
lizard. Both these animals
have large natural ranges
and compete in many
different micro-habitats.
But there are many others
for sale which are much
more specialized and
will require specialized
and sometimes costly
caging and care.
Never
purchase wild-collected
reptiles or other animals
as pets. Many of these
wild-caught animals
carry diseases and parasites
harmful to your other
pets. Most will also
be less adaptable to
captive conditions and
will harm themselves
or their keepers. It
is also our responsibility
to buy captive-produced
pets to help safeguard
wild-populations of
animals.
Venomous animals do not make good pets. The keeping and breeding of dangerous and venomous animals like large snakes (over 12 feet), large aggressive lizards and crocodilians or deadly poisonous reptiles like cobras and rattlesnakes should only be attempted by experienced keepers with the knowledge and resources to properly manage those animals. Read the facts on human fatality linked to captive reptiles.
Also
important when considering
which animal best suits
you are it's caging
and care requirements.
Aquatic turtles need
special filtering systems
for their tanks. Most
lizards need some live
food (mainly insects)
and many have special
lighting and temperature/humidity
requirements. Snakes
only eat other (whole)
animals as food, almost
all accept pre-killed
prey but some will not,
so you must be able
to attend to that need.
Reptiles
are best kept in cages.
And almost all are best
kept singly, not in
groups. Many are injured
or killed when allowed
to roam the house or
by a cage-mate if kept
together. When
purchasing a young reptile
consider the size enclosure
it will need as an adult.
Most boas, as an example,
will need a cage 4-6 feet
long as adults. The
large pythons can require
complicated caging even
larger.
What
are the important things
in the successful keeping
of Reptiles as pets?
Temperature,
caging and feeding.
Reptiles
are cold-blooded, which
means they maintain
their body-temperature
with the aid of their
environment. Many inexperienced
reptile keepers make
the mistake of thinking
that they can heat or
cool the animal's entire
cage. Instead, a temperature
gradient, where the
cage is cooler at one
side and warmer at the
other, should be supplied.
This gradient allows
the reptile to control
it's own body temperature,
more as they would in
nature. Generally, temperatures
under about 72 degrees (F)
and over 95 degrees (F) should
be avoided in proper
husbandry of most reptiles,
there are specific exceptions
to this rule. Further
temperature control
is needed to encourage
most reptiles to breed
in captivity. Temperature
gradient is usually
created by installing
a (controllable) heat-source
under one end of the
enclosure. This can
also be done with lighting,
especially for diurnal
(active in the day)
lizards.
Reptiles
require adequate-sized
cages which can be securely
closed, easily cleaned
and lack ways for the
animal to harm itself.
Aquariums have some
of the attributes of
a good reptile cage,
particularly for aquatic
species, but lack others.
Two problems with aquaria
as reptile caging are
that they do not hold
humidity and they are
too open, many reptiles
require much more seclusion
to live happily. Professionally
made unitized caging
such as Neodesha caging
systems is the very
best choice. A good
glass or wood cage,
specially equipped for
your reptile will also
work. Every new reptile
keeper starts small,
but eventually if you
are serious about providing
the best life for your
pets you will invest
as much (or more!) money
and time in your facilities
(caging, lighting, temperature
and humidity control)
as you will in livestock.
Reptile diets are variable. Research your pet’s dietary needs and supply the best food available. It is also possible to underfeed and overfeed a reptile. Obesity in reptiles is harmful to the animal’s health and longevity. Very large and heavy individuals of many species exhibit diminished breeding and fertility. Watch your reptile closely to be sure it is getting the right amounts of the proper foods. IMPORTANT NOTE; New owners of reptile pets are many times fascinated or entertained by the feeding behaviors of their new snake or lizard. Overfeeding often results. There are many other unique and interesting things to see and learn about reptiles in captivity, especially if they are properly kept in appropriate, stable environments. Find ways other than feeding to observe or interact with your reptile pets. And as with the keeping of any animal cleanliness and attention to detail are absolutely necessary. Let
me also make this point
to anyone thinking about
acquiring a reptile
pet. Most of us have
been exposed to traditional
pets (dogs, cats, etc.)
over a period of many
years. We have a sense
(large or small) of
how these animals are
doing, what they might
need and can respond
to those needs. You
will have to closely
observe your reptile
pets to learn some portion
of that same understanding
about your lizard or
snake or turtle. Without
this ability to observe
and learn you will eventually
fail as a keeper of
Reptiles.
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| Boas | ||
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Boa
constrictors are one of the most common and
wide-ranging reptile
species. They are found
from Northern Mexico
near the U.S. border
southward to Argentina
in habitats as varied
as lowland desert and
semi-desert scrubland
to tropical rainforest
and coastal mountain
cloudforest. Boas have
also colonised remnant
continental and volcanic
uplift islands as well
as coral Cays or low
islands in the Caribbean.
Understanding the origins
of the various boa groups
as well as their morphological
and behavioral differences
is a very large part
of the fun of keeping
Boas.
Several
subspecies of boas and
many locality populations
are recognized.
Some
island forms of boas
grow to only about 4 feet
in length but most all
the boas will grow to
7 feet or longer in captivity.
Boas feed very well
on mice and rats. In
captivity well cared-for
boas regularly live
for more than a dozen
years.
The
boas are one of the
easiest reptiles to
keep as pets but the
size potential of adult
boas should be considered
before acquiring one.
Boas can be bred in
captivity with the proper
attention to temperature
gradients and feeding.
Baby boas are among
the most desirable reptile
pets.
The
temperament of the boas
ranges from quite docile
to downright ornery.
Genetics and more importantly
how well the animal
is housed and treated
both play a role in
how tame your pet boa
will be.
The
general requirements
of the boas in captivity
are: |
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Chuckwallas Captive Care of Sauromalus sp. |
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Chuckwallas
are large diurnal lizards
native to rocky deserts
of the western U.S.
and adjacent northern
Mexico. There are several
recognized races of
Chucks, including
island forms from the
Sea of Cortez. Most
U.S. chuckwallas are
10 to 15 inches in length
as adults and will live
for 10 (or more) years
if well cared for. In
nature these fascinating
lizards inhabit crevices
in rocky outcroppings
and talus slopes where
they thermo-regulate
and seek refuge from
predators. Captive chucks
also enjoy access to
rocky piles and cracks. Chucks need daytime temperatures of 85-90 deg (f), an additional basking spot of 100deg or more should also be provided. And they require UV exposure, either from a top-quality lamp source or natural sunshine. Our Sauromalus sp. can tolerate temperatures as low as 40 deg but should not be exposed to nighttime lows below about 70 deg during periods of feeding and growth. Chuckwallas do well in groups but males must be kept separated after about a year of age. Three year-old chuckwallas will successfully breed and a colony ratio of 1.3 works very well. Seasonality plays an important role in chuck reproduction. Chuckwallas thrive on a (comparatively) low-nutrient, high-bulk diet. While some will accept insects a strict vegetarian diet is recommended. Typically, the diet is composed of 80% leafy vegetables and 20% other items such as fruits or flowers. Chuckwallas do best on a varied diet. Some recommended food items available almost anywhere are: Romaine lettuce, Collards, Mustard greens, Kale, Chard (the tops) and Turnip greens. Many types of wild leaves and shoots can also be safely fed such as dandelions and mulberry. Roll up tough greens into a cigar shape and slice the roll into sections, 1/4 inch wide for small chucks and about 1/2 inch wide for adults. All types of Squash can be fed, as well as carrots and an occasional apple, shred these items on a flat manual grater. Other favorites are frozen (thawed) sweet peas and French-cut green beans. Chucks require little moisture in addition to what they get in their diet, water bowls will usually be ignored. Also, do not feed the thick watery bases of lettuce and similar vegetables, they will cause watery stools. Feed growing chuckwallas as much as they will consume in about a four-hour period five or more times per week, adults can be fed a little less often. Calcium and vitamin supplements should be given once each week, especially to indoor colonies. Neonate Sauromalus frequently fail to thrive unless given access to the faeces of an adult, which they consume in order to start the colonies of beneficial bacteria in their gut needed to fully digest their food. Wild-collected chuckwallas can be problem pets and sometimes fail to acclimate. Captive-produced ones are almost always hardy and rewarding animals. Back to Top |
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| Kingsnakes | ||
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Members
of the Kingsnake family, which includes the milksnakes,
have been among the
most popular reptile
pets for decades. The
common name of the group
is probably derived
from the fact that many
of these snakes will
eat other snakes, including
venemous snakes. The
genus name Lampropeltis refers to their shiny,
iridescent skins. Kingsnakes (L. getula ssp.), and
their close relatives
the milksnakes (L. triangulum
ssp.), come in a wide
variety of sizes and
colors.
Kingsnakes
are native to the U.S.
and N. Mexico and grow
to a maximun length
of about 5 feet. The Milksnakes
are considered the widest
ranging terrestrial
vertebrate species in
the world and are found
from the N. E. United
States to the Andes
mountains in S. America.
Most Milksnake sub-species
grow to only about 3 feet
but some tropical forms
will attain 5 feet in length
or longer.
Except
for some members of
the Mexicana group,
which can require specific
temperature regulation,
these snakes are considered
very easy to maintain
and breed in captivity,
though hatchlings sometimes
are difficult feeders.
The
kings and milks are
known to be somewhat
squirmy and can be messy
captives but are rarely
aggressive.
The
general requirements
of Kingsnakes and Milksnakes
in captivity are:
Adequate escape-proof
caging, kings and milks
are escape-artists! |
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| Ratsnakes | ||
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North
American ratsnakes of
the genus Elaphe, specifically
the red ratsnakes or Cornsnakes
(E. guttata ssp.)
are the most widely kept
and popular of reptile
pets. Our Ratsnakes range
from southeast Canada
to the Florida Keys, west
to central Colorado and
southward in a broken
range to N. E. Mexico.
There are other interesting
Ratsnake species in Mexico
and Central America as
well as Euoropean and
Asian forms. Many of these
others are beautiful animals
but none match the Cornsnakes
in ease of care, adaptability
and calm disposition.
As the name implies, ratsnakes
feed primarily on rodents
in nature but also eat
birds (and bird eggs)
and many other vertebrates.
The general requirements of Ratsnakes in captivity are: An adequate escape-proof cage with a hide-box. Temperature gradient of 70 to 90 degrees (F) Relative humidity of 35% or more. — A. Rentfro Back to Top |
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Rio Bravo
Reptiles breeds top quality
boa constrictors including
redtail, insular, island
and dwarf boas. |
All Content and Photos International Copyright 2005 Gus Rentfro / Rio Bravo Reptiles |